Oven, Cooktop and Rangehood Installation
We connect ovens, cooktops and rangehoods, including hardwired installs and the dedicated circuit an induction cooktop almost always needs. Tell us what you have bought before delivery day and we'll tell you what it actually needs.
The Induction Problem Nobody Warns You About
This is the single most common surprise in kitchen appliance work, and it catches people out constantly.
You have had a gas cooktop and an electric oven. You buy an induction cooktop. The appliance retailer arranges delivery and installation. The installer arrives, looks at the existing oven point, and tells you it won't do the job.
They're usually right. A typical four-zone induction cooktop can draw well over 30 amps at full tilt, and it's hardwired rather than plugged in. The circuit feeding your old oven was very often not sized for that on top of the oven, so the cooktop needs its own dedicated circuit run from the switchboard.
If the switchboard is full, and on a 1980s board in Wynn Vale or Golden Grove it frequently is, that becomes a switchboard conversation as well. None of this is a problem if you know about it two weeks before delivery. It's a considerable problem if you find out on the day, with a new kitchen and no way to cook.
So: tell us the make and model before you buy, or at least before it's delivered. We'll look at the specification and your board and give you a straight answer.
What We Install
We handle the electrical side of kitchen appliance installation, whether that's a straight replacement or part of a new kitchen.
- Wall ovens, under-bench ovens and double ovens, plugged or hardwired
- Induction, ceramic and solid-element cooktops, including the dedicated circuits they need
- Freestanding electric cookers
- Rangehoods, including ducted units and the outlets behind them
- Gas-to-electric conversions, where the electrical work is the whole job
- Dishwashers, microwaves and other built-in appliances that need a point in the right place
- Isolation switches, positioned where you can actually reach them without pulling the appliance out
Customer-Supplied Appliances
We're happy to install an appliance you have bought yourself, from anywhere, as long as it is a unit approved for sale and use in Australia. There's no markup game here and no requirement to buy through us.
What we do ask is that the appliance is on site and unpacked before we arrive, and that you have the installation instructions. Manufacturers vary in what they require for clearances, isolation and connection, and the instructions are what we work to.
One caution worth stating: appliances bought overseas or from grey-market importers sometimes aren't approved for Australian use, and we can't connect those. It's rare, but it does happen, and it's better to know before you have paid for it.
Timing Around a Kitchen Renovation
In a kitchen renovation the electrical work happens in two visits, and getting the sequence right saves everyone money.
The rough-in happens once the old kitchen is out and before the plaster and the cabinetry go in. That's when we run circuits, position outlets, set out under-bench and joinery lighting, and put the cooktop and oven supplies where the new layout needs them.
The fit-off happens once the cabinetry and benchtop are in. Outlets and switches get fitted, appliances get connected, lighting gets terminated and everything gets tested.
The mistake we see most is being called in after the cabinetry is installed, which is how you end up with a powerpoint behind a fixed panel or an isolation switch you have to empty a cupboard to reach. Get us in at planning stage and those decisions get made on a drawing rather than with a drill.
What Drives the Price
We aren't going to publish a headline figure that turns into something else once we're on site. What we'll do is tell you exactly what moves the number, so you can see where your job is likely to sit before you call.
- Whether the existing supply is adequate or a new dedicated circuit is needed
- The distance from the switchboard to the kitchen for any new circuit
- Whether the switchboard has a spare way or is full
- Whether the appliance is plugged or hardwired
- Whether it's a straight swap or part of a kitchen renovation with rough-in and fit-off
- Any additional work such as moving the isolation switch or adding outlets for other appliances
Quotes are free, fixed, and state what's included and excluded. If we think something might turn up once we open things up, you hear about it before we start rather than on the invoice.
Call 0435 006 420Where We Do This Work
We service all of Adelaide. Being based in Wynn Vale, these are the suburbs we're in most often and where we can usually get to you fastest. Pick yours for local detail, and if you are somewhere else in the metro area, just call and ask.
Common Questions About Oven & Cooktop Installation
Almost always, yes. A typical four-zone induction cooktop draws well over 30 amps at full output and is hardwired. The circuit that fed your old oven was usually not sized to carry that as well, so a dedicated circuit from the switchboard is normally required.
Yes, as long as it is approved for sale and use in Australia. There's no requirement to buy through us. Just have it on site and unpacked with the installation instructions available before we arrive.
Electrically it's a new dedicated circuit from the switchboard to the cooktop, sized for the appliance, plus an isolation switch somewhere accessible. If the board is full it may also need upgrading. The gas side needs a licensed gas fitter to disconnect and cap the supply, which is separate work.
A straight like-for-like replacement into an existing suitable point is a small job. It gets more involved when a new circuit is needed, when the run from the switchboard is long, or when the board has no spare capacity. Tell us the appliance model and we can be specific.
At planning stage, then on site for rough-in once the old kitchen is out and before plaster and cabinetry, then again for fit-off after the benchtop goes in. Being called after the cabinetry is installed is how outlets end up behind fixed panels.
It needs a point positioned where the rangehood can reach it and where it stays accessible, which usually means inside the cabinetry above the unit. It's a small detail that's very annoying to fix once the joinery is in, so it's worth setting out at rough-in.
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Owner-operated, licensed and insured. Justin quotes the job, does the job, and answers the phone afterwards.